Dimming not dimmable LED, IKEA Bäve, produced before 2019-11
In former post I used a Fibaro Z-Wave RGBW controller but in this post I will use an IKEA original !
Intro
The main idea is to put the dimming controller after the LED driver since You can't dim the LED:s on incoming 240VAC.
Bäve
The Bäve LED driver(BLD) is a constant current driver which outputs 350 mA and the output voltage is 15 - 30 VDC max 33VDC.
Solution
There are some LED controllers, 12-24VDC supply, available but in this case I used the controller, ICPSLC24-10NA, from an IKEA LED driver. It's also so small that it fits within the actual casing !! So just disassemble the driver and pick out the Zigbee controller(ZC). Check picture.
As seen in the schematics above, Bäve with 3 LEDs, the ZC is just connected in series to the LED:s.
If You are using a 6 LED Bäve there is 2 BLD:s supplying 2 groups consisting of 3 LEDs. In this case You have to put the 2 BLDs in parallell and also the LED groups in parallell.
I think this solution could work together with many LED drivers, which outputs at least 12 VDC and not more than 32 VDC, since the BLD i using PWM.
Sync it with an IKEA remote, or other control device, or use it together with the Trådfri Gateway. (If you are adding the driver to the gateway you must use a control device that is already connected to the gateway as the "link"). Using the direct integration with Homekit it will be available in Apple Home app.
Proposed solution for the new Bäve
From 2019-11 a new version of Bäve have been introduced.
The supply DC to the ZC must be reduced to 20 - 30 VDC
The switching transistor, FET, must handle 130 VDC, Drain - Source
Solution ? Not tested !!!
The serial transistor, TIP 132, must handle 100 VDC Collector - Emitter and 0,5 W
Components
Resistor, 33 kOhm, 1/2 watt
Transistor darlington NPN, TIP 132/TO220,
MosFET, N channel, IRF630NPBF
Zenerdiode, 1n5255b, 28V, 0,5 W
(Other components could be used but must have similar ratings)
Instructions
"+" and "-" output from ZC should not be used !!
The new FET could probably be soldered on top of the mounted, DMN3009SK3, se picture above. Solder pins, gate and source, to the mounted FET and bend, with pliers not to close to the body, the drain upwards and connect it with the "-" wire on the LED
Connect the "+" wire of the LED direct to the powersupply according to the schematics.
If someone is testing the proposal, please confirm the outcome !
As seen in the schematics above, Bäve with 3 LEDs, the ZC is just connected in series to the LED:s.
If You are using a 6 LED Bäve there is 2 BLD:s supplying 2 groups consisting of 3 LEDs. In this case You have to put the 2 BLDs in parallell and also the LED groups in parallell.
I think this solution could work together with many LED drivers, which outputs at least 12 VDC and not more than 32 VDC, since the BLD i using PWM.
Sync it with an IKEA remote, or other control device, or use it together with the Trådfri Gateway. (If you are adding the driver to the gateway you must use a control device that is already connected to the gateway as the "link"). Using the direct integration with Homekit it will be available in Apple Home app.
Proposed solution for the new Bäve
From 2019-11 a new version of Bäve have been introduced.
- 5 LED rated 18W, power supply rated 140mA, 130VDC
- 3 LED rated 11W, ?
The supply DC to the ZC must be reduced to 20 - 30 VDC
The switching transistor, FET, must handle 130 VDC, Drain - Source
Solution ? Not tested !!!
The ZC is measured to draw about 3 mA. For a Bäve 5 LED the solution could be;
The serial transistor, TIP 132, must handle 100 VDC Collector - Emitter and 0,5 W
Components
Resistor, 33 kOhm, 1/2 watt
Transistor darlington NPN, TIP 132/TO220,
MosFET, N channel, IRF630NPBF
Zenerdiode, 1n5255b, 28V, 0,5 W
(Other components could be used but must have similar ratings)
Instructions
"+" and "-" output from ZC should not be used !!
The new FET could probably be soldered on top of the mounted, DMN3009SK3, se picture above. Solder pins, gate and source, to the mounted FET and bend, with pliers not to close to the body, the drain upwards and connect it with the "-" wire on the LED
Connect the "+" wire of the LED direct to the powersupply according to the schematics.
If someone is testing the proposal, please confirm the outcome !
I was about to ditch my Bäve and get another lamp when I stumbled upon this post, thank you!!!
ReplyDeleteNice You liked it !
DeleteThis is great! I'm gonna give this a try. I have the 5 LED BÄVE but i suppose it should work fine.
DeleteYes it should work fine. The latest version with 5 leds is according to the spec brighter, then the old one. On the other hand the ZC is handling up to 30 Watts. Would appreciate feedback if the new one have just 1 powersupply.
DeleteThere is only 1 PSU but it has an constant output of 140mA and a range from 88.5-130Vdc so clearly more than 32....I'm guessing it won't work then?
DeleteOK. Don't know the max voltage for the ZC, but if You are OK with the cost for testing, 11€ if the ZC breaks, I should have done a test. The mentioned 32V DC is an assumption.
DeleteAlright. Sure I'll give it a go. I wasn't sure exactly what could happen since I am not an expert when it comes to electronics. But if it's only the ZC that might break it's fine. I'll give you an update on how it goes.
DeleteLogical vise it's just the ZC that eventually will break, since all switched power supplies, used in Bäve, are designed with current limited output. But i can't guarantee anything. Check out if You get very hot components on the ZC and if so terminate the test.
DeleteSo I gave it a try but what happens is the LEDs are blinking 3 times then stops for about 3 seconds then blinks three times again and repeats. Components seem fine, nothing with a particular high temperature. Not sure what is going on.
DeleteThanks for Your efforts testing! It seems that there is some logic for handling the high/over voltage. Did further "digging" trying to read the labeling on the output transistor, and it seems to be a MOSFET https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/DMN3009SK3.pdf The thing is that this is specified for max 30VDC so thats probably why the logic goes in warning with blinks. If You wan't, I can do som further checking how to add some more components to make it work ?
DeleteThank you but unfortunately today the lamp gave up completely. It did work for a couple of days but now it's dead (only faded flickering) so it seems my testing gave the lights a beating. I probably keept the power on for to long for those poor LEDs, or maybe the driver I don't know. I'll probably end up buying another lamp that's actually dimmable... But I had fun trying :)
DeleteSorry to hear that, but a little strange that the lamp gave up ..... Will propose an alternative solution in some days.
DeleteI had the same issue as Victor, but with the 3 LED Bäve. Any ideas on how I could fix this?
ReplyDeleteOK, what are the specifications for the power supply, current and voltage ?
DeleteIm trying to do the same thing with the storjorm led driver - constant current DC500mA 10.5W max 25V. Same setup as you describe. Led strips are switching on and off. When i switch off the power from trådfri app i still get faded light switching on and off. Any ideas?
ReplyDeleteSorry, but don't really understand your explanation of what is happening ? Does a remote control work?
DeleteSorry. The Zigbee controller is working. I can switch it on and off from the app and measure on the out pins i got power. But the led strips keeps blinking when i switch the power is on in the app. When i switch the power off using the trådfri app the led is still blinking but faded.
DeleteThe blinking indicates some sort of unwanted status. Have You checked the input voltage to the ZC, should be around 20 - 30 Vdc ?
DeleteAnother test could be using a DC/DC converter, stabilising the supply voltage to the ZC, as I did in this post https://pysselilivet.blogspot.com/2017/10/qubino-flush-dimmer-1-10-v.html In this case don't use + output, from the ZC, instead connect the + side of the LED direct to the + side of the transformer.
DeleteTurns out the led strips in storjorm are not dimmable with PWM. Switched out the strips for basic dimmable 12v strips and now its working.
DeleteOk, thanks for the feedback! Glad You succeeded.
DeleteCheers! Thank you for the inspiration and for sharing your knowledge
ReplyDelete👍 Thx !
DeleteHi, I want to try the proposal for the new 5 LED Bäve. But I have a hard time sourcing components and I'm not confident in finding substitutes. Can I sub the FET for a TIP147, and what could be a sub for the IRF630NPBF MosFET? Can the Zener be 30V?
ReplyDeleteThanks, I'll report back about the progress! These lights have a nice design but are way too bright.
Nice ! If you mean sub the TIP 132 with a TIP 147 it's not possible, must be a NPN darlington. OK with a 30 V zener. The best way to find subs is to google and match the findings with your selected supplier.
DeleteIm loving this idea as im stucked with a wrong decision of bying this bave 5 spots. Unfortunatly dont understand much about electronics otherwise would do it myself:(
ReplyDeleteOK, sorry to say nobody seems to have checked my solution.
DeleteHi! I will ask an elektrician to help me however I only want to use a "dimmer" mounted on the wall, not a remote solution. Is that possible given your drawing and explanations? As a consumer I do not understand a thing about this but I love the design and do now wish to spend so much money and time of new lamps. Thanks in advance.
ReplyDeleteHi! Sorry to say the Bäve can't be dimmed by a "standard" wall dimmer due to the internal design of the electronics.
DeleteNo related to the dimming you guys are trying to do. But I ask and maybe you can help, with just on/off switch to the lamp :)
ReplyDeleteI have the 3 LED BAVE bought 1 year ago. Mounter it myself with regular cable for lights (https://www.jula.no/catalog/el-artikler-og-belysning/el-installasjon/lampetilbehor/lampeoppheng/ledningssett-402289/)
After 1-2 months the LED started blinking 3 times, then a pause and blinking again. Sometimes when I turn on it work. Sometime it does the blinking dance. Bought another one because I thought the unit was failing, but still got the same problem on the new one.
Any idea whats going on? In Norway the output from the socket is 230V 50HZ.
DeleteNo that beats me, since you have the same behaviour on the second one. I would contact IKEA customer service.
Exactly the same, two units, brand new, bought and installed today (25.10.)
Delete